Optics for Hunting Airguns

Optics for Hunting Airguns
Why scope your airgun
An important component of an airgun hunting rig is a quality scope, as this permits you to realize the intrinsic accuracy of the rifle. There are several reasons to consider scoping an air rifle. Magnification, the ability to enhance the target in conditions of low lighting, and fast sight acquisition are all key factors. Most of us can use iron sights on a lever action 30-30 to take a deer-sized animal at 50 yards, but for me to drop a pellet into the small kill zone of a squirrel at 50 yards requires an assist, especially in the dim light of the early dawn or evening hours when much of my hunting occurs.

Selecting a scope
There are a variety of scopes available for every type of gun and shooting, but the airgunner has special needs. Scopes designed specifically for airguns have become widely available in the last few years, offering good to great optical quality over a wide range of price points. The right scope depends on what type of airgun you use; spring piston airguns have a reputation for being scope eaters, especially the big magnum springers. Even those scopes built to go on a magnum centerfire can be shaken to pieces by a small caliber spring piston air rifle. This is because of the direction of the recoil generated when the spring driven piston slams home, causing a strong bidirectional force to be exerted. Heavy magnum firearm scopes are not designed to stand up to this type of recoil, and the internal mechanisms can be jolted out of alignment. This causes the point of impact to shift around rendering the scope unusable. When buying a scope for a springer, make sure you find one rated for this type of gun or you may be in the market for a replacement sooner than expected! Another issue to consider when attaching a scope to a springer is the selection of the right mounts; on a heavy recoiling springer a one piece mount makes sense as the scope is less likely to “walk” back on the dovetails than a conventional two piece set of rings. On these guns you probably want to use a scope stop, which is a small brace that is clamped onto the dovetail, many models have a pin that drops into an indentation on the rail preventing any rearward shift in position.

Pre-charged pneumatics are almost recoilless, so a standard firearm scope will hold up without problems. However, most airgun shooting occurs in the 20 to 50 yard range, and most firearm scopes have their parallax correction set at much greater distances. Airgun hunters tend to shoot smaller targets at closer ranges, conditions where the effect of parallax distortion is much more distinctive and apparent. For this reason many airgun scope makers design in an adjustable parallax correction on their scopes. The shooter looks through the scope and turns the forward or side mounted objective control until the target becomes sharp. At that point, the parallax error has been reduced for that particular target at a given range. I have scopes with sidewheels and lens ring adjustments, and both work if you become used to them. I have had squirrels and other skitterish game slip out of view while fumbling with the adjustment. On the other hand I’ve been shooting prairie dogs and groundsquirrels from a set position where the ability to range find using the AO was a great advantage. So it depends on the shooter and the type of shooting they do.

What's available?
There are several manufacturers that currently have airgun specific offerings on the market; including Tasco, Leupold, BSA, Nikko Stirling and Leapers. I have and use scopes from all these manufacturers, and all make very good products. I have a well over a hundred rifles in my collection, and was looking for a cost effective solution for the problem of keeping several guns scoped and sighted in at the same time. I was tired of having to remount and re-zero scopes as I moved from gun to gun and back again. At a SHOT show a few years ago, I stopped by the Leapers booth and looked at their products, a range of scopes for just about any application. I ordered several, actually a grab bag of twenty scopes, and have been using these (and others) ever since. I agree with the oft heard adage “buy the best scope you can afford”, but at the same time think the Leapers scopes are one of the best values around. I am not as fond of the compact “Bug Buster” scopes, but have had very good experience with all of the large aperture variable mag scopes I’ve used. I have used these scopes on the gun taken to Africa on both my big game and small game guns because I trust the optical quality and robustness of construction (also a cost effective way to carry backups).Regardless of which you choose, there are certain features that are absolutely necessary in a scope destined to ride on the hunting air rifle, and others that may be desired based on your shooting style and intended use. As mentioned, the scope must be designed to stand up to the forces exerted by a spring piston airgun if that is the platform you’ll be mounting it on. The parallax correction must either be set for the ranges at which airguns are used, or allow the shooter to make adjustments when required. Many of the scopes I use can be adjusted from 7 yards to infinity and I find this to be just about the perfect range of control, but be aware it adds one more adjustment parameter to deal with in the field.

Illuminated crosshairs
Since a common use of airguns is to hunt pest and small game, often taking place in low light conditions, the scope must offer excellent light transmission properties. Many of the airgun scopes being offered today are equipped with illuminated crosshairs, which are quite useful in placing a shot when hunting in low light. In the hours of near darkness in the early dawn or late in the day, it is a common occurrence to have the outline of your quarry but are unable to determine where the crosshairs overlay it. An illuminated red or green crosshair glowing over the outline makes the difference between a shoot-no shoot decision in this situation.

What magnification?
For much of the quarry hunted with airguns, the kill zones tend to be quite small and a variable magnification is a useful feature, in my opinion 3-9x or a 3-12x is the best option in most cases. I don’t use very high power magnifications for most hunting duty, because unless you have a very solid rest the crosshairs at 16x magnification tend to shake like you’re in an earthquake! On the other hand, for lower powered guns that will be used primarily for close in pest control a fixed 4x magnification scope works well. This provides adequate magnification, makes shooting accurately inside of dark buildings like a barn or a feed shed easier, and removes the need to give even passing consideration to the magnification setting when preparing to squeeze the trigger.

Scope models coming from various manufacturers come equipped with Mil-dots, which are a series of dots aligned vertically and horizontally (usually at one mil from dot center to dot center) along the cross hair (Mil dots have been well covered in earlier blog entries. These mil dots can be used to range find if the hunter knows the right formula to apply and the size of their target, but this is somewhat complicated to work out when hunting. I use a laser range finder as it is quicker, easier, and more accurate. But when sighting in my gun I work out which mildot to use at 20, 40, and 60 yards and use the mil-dot and laser range finder en concert to determine shot placement in the field.

Finding a scope
I would suggest that when you get ready to purchase a scope for your air rifle that you consider the platform and the intended use, then take a look online at what’s available.. While you may find an airgun rated scope at your local gun shop, the selection will most probably be fairly limited. I also think that if you want a good quality glass the is a great value, you should take a look at the scopes offered by Leapers.

Jim

Got a new tank

I purchased a Warthog carbon fiber tank from Airhog about two months ago, and have been using it extensively ever since. I am really impressed with both the volume of air and the number of high pressure refills this compact little tank offers up.

Where does the Warthog fit in?
I have been using an even smaller carbon fiber tank that was a predecessor of the Pigmee tank (also purchased from Van about 4 years ago) and an 80 cu ft steel tank to keep my guns charged ….. the warthog is a perfect compromise between the two. I still use the mini bottle in my day pack when out hunting, especially with big bores, but only use the steel tank in my basement range now. The Warthog has become my general use tank, and I plan to take it along in a couple weeks when I head out to Nevada to hunt before the shot show.

How does it compare to my other tanks?
The Warthog is a 4500 psi carbon fiber tank holding 17 cu ft and weighs a bit over 8lb when filled yet provides more fully rated charges than the 80 cu ft steel tank. Before I bought this tank I reckoned I’d use it as a back up tank, but based the last couple months experience I’m going to get rid of my remaining steel tank and buy another Warthog. It’s nice to have a tank that I can empty out and pack in my bag when flying to a hunt location, and find that I have more than enough air for a weekend of plinking and rabbit hunting.. I also appreciate not breaking my back lugging a steel tank from site to site.

Fittings
My tank is configured with the Swivel Microbore Hose and a female foster fitting. I like this setup better than the short braided hose used on my other tanks, as I find it easier to maneuver the gun when filling. Anybody else had any experience with these tanks?

Closing Thoughts

These smaller carbon tanks are a bit expensive when compared to steel or alum, but they have everything going for them; they are tough, high fill pressure and air capacity, they are light weight and based on flights all over north America, Europe, and Africa they seem to stand up well to the rigours of travel.

Jim

Airgun cure for cabin fever

One of the things I really like about airguns, is the ability to shoot them just about anywhere. My office is built in the large finished basement in my house. From my desk to the target cabinet at the other end is 10 meters. This requires shooting across the office and through the exercise room, but all the gym equipment is positioned so it won’t interfere.

The terminal end of this little indoor range is a 3’ x 4’ cabinet that is 16” deep. A lower and upper shelf has been left for storage of targets, pellets, and other odds and ends. The middle section is roughly 2’x3’, and is backed by a 1/4” sheet of steel plate. I purchased a number of cardboard boxes that fits the space perfectly, and when filled with plumbers putty is good for a few hundred shots, occasionally patching it up with duct tape. When the box starts to get torn up too badly, I dump the putty into a new box and start over again. The clip from a clipboard is taped at the top and bottom of the box and used to attach targets. Under shelf lighting is built in, and really makes the targets pop.

My desk is large, and stored underneath in a chest is a rest with a sandbag that sets up quickly and unobtrusively when needed. I’ve also got a chronograph with a light source on a cart that rolls into the utility room when not in use. This little mini range is typically used for initial sighting in of new rifles, measuring pellet velocities, more or less the preparatory work before moving outdoors and shooting at longer range. But on weekends like this, with snow storms blowing it has been a lot of fun going downstairs with a box of reactive targets (animal crackers) to shoot at off hand. OK, 10 meter plinking isn’t that challenging, but my feeling is any shooting is fun and that the more you shoot the better you are when it’s time to hunt. After a day and a half of shooting several guns while the storms continued to blow, I’ve finally run out of air. I either need to go to the garage and grab the spare tank or switch to springers for awhile!

Like to hear how you guys have set up your indoor ranges, always looking for new ideas!

The Prairie Falcon: One of my all time favorite hunting guns!

I’ve been shooting the PF25 for a couple of years now, and have used the gun for everything from starlings to groundhogs with great success. My rifle is a.22 caliber, and when I head out to the squirrel woods with four of the rotary magazines loaded up with eight shots each, I’m geared up for a days outing. If I’m going to go out after prairie dogs in a very target rich environment I’ll carry a Pigmee bottle and a tin of pellets I’m then good for as long as I want to shoot, never running out of air or ammo!

The PF25 is my go to rifle, it is as accurate as any hunting rifle I’ve ever shot and more accurate than most. The rifle is perfectly balanced and the ergonomics are great. The walnut stock with its adjustable butt pad fits like it was built for me. The right handed stock has a well shaped cheekpeice, which along with the perfectly shaped checkered pistol grip gives a consistent hold on the rifle from any shooting position. This is a key aspect of a great hunting gun in my opinion; you never know what position you’ll have to shoot from in the field. The gun is highly reliable and cycles flawlessly.

I’ve recently mounted a Nikko Stirling Platnum series 6-24x52 scope with AO, in BKL medium profile two piece mounts. This turned out to be a great gun/scope combo! I took it to my back yard range and sighted in at 40 yards (where I sight in all my pcps) using JSB Exacts, and stacked pellet on top of pellet.

Last week I took the gun out to a local farm, and was doing some long distant sniping at pigeons. I was set up about 50 yards from a feed bin where the birds would drift in and eat then fly away. Until I got there! Was able to consistently drop birds from 50 to 80 yards away, and put 11 on the ground before the end of the session.

Airhog carries the complete line of Falcons, both the Classic and Prairie Falcons, and if you’re in search of a pcp for hunting I’d suggest you consider this gun. I have been a customer here for several years, back when Van had the company based in Texas. My first contact was to buy a carbon fiber tank (which is another must have), but man oh man when I got to shoot the PF25 I fell in love with it. Due to the soft dollar and ever more restrictive laws in the UK, these guns will get more expensive and less available, if you want a superb hunting rifle now is the time

My First Post On Airblog

I’ve been given the opportunity to contribute to the Airblog, and though this is new territory for me presents an opportunity I am looking forward to. I’ll start out by telling you a bit about myself, which will help understand my perspective as I post on various aspects of the airgunning world.

I’ve been involved with shooting and hunting using all types of airguns for the last thirty years. While not a serious target or field target shooter, I spend a lot of time on the bench shooting springers, pcs, and the odd CO2 gun for quantitative results. One of the things I love about airguns is that I have a 15 yard indoor range and a 50 yard outdoor range at my house, and get to spend a lot of time behind the trigger. I write about airguns and have a pretty constant flow of new guns to try out, and from time to time I consult with airgun companies and manufacturers on a marketing or design concept.

My real forte is as a hunter; I travel to many destinations to hunt all manner of small game and varmint with my air rifles. While I enjoy using springers and will continue to employ them in the field and carry them as back up guns on my travels, I honestly spend a lot more time with pcps these days.

The reasons I like to hunt with airguns are varied; they are accurate, powerful enough but with a limited carrying range, and quiet. This opens up a lot of new territory to hunt close to home, and as mentioned it’s possible to get in a lot of practice without having to travel to the range. Both of these are important factors for me, as between a busy professional and family life free time is a precious commodity. It’s probably the same for most of us these days, but it is practical for me living in suburbia to shoot and hunt several times in a week with airguns, which would not be possible any other way.

Over the coming weeks I’ll write about airguns, gear, pellet selection, hunting techniques, and quarry. I look forward to having an ongoing dialog with the readers of the Airblog!

The Wind Reader

by Harley Ayre

You can shoot your air rifle better in almost any windy situation with a gadget you can make yourself for the princely sum of about a dollar.

What you need is a "wind reader." Making a one for yourself is incredibly simple. Go to an electronics supply store and purchase a small package of heavy duty releasable cable ties that are at least 5-6 inches long. Wrap one around the barrel or the underlever of your air rifle near the muzzle. Mount it so that it sticks out to the opposite side from your scope eye. The cable tie must be tight enough that the "arm" will stay put when placed in a horizontal position, but loose enough that you can rotate it straight up or straight down to slip into a gun case.

Next, fasten a few inches (perhaps half at foot at first) of yarn to the end of the cable tie (it helps to drill a hole in the cable tie before you start). Any color yarn, so long as you can see it easily, will do.

When the wind is calm, the yarn hangs straight down. But as the wind begins to rise, the yarn moves away from the vertical. The stronger the wind, the more the yarn moves away from vertical. Notice this: the wind reader shows both the strength and the direction of the wind. Notice, too, that if the wind is quartering -- coming, for example, from the right and partly behind the shooter -- the only thing the yarn shows from the shooter’s point of view at the controls is the amount of left-right wind that must be compensated for.

Reading the wind reader takes some practice. If you are shooting as close as 10 yards, look at the yarn close to where it attaches to the cable tie. Except under extreme conditions, you’ll see very little deflection in the yard, and therefore you probably can shoot dead-on.

But as the range to the target increases, you need to look further down the yarn, perhaps a couple of inches down at 20 yards. So if the yarn swings out an inch to the left, you might need to hold an inch to the left of the center of the target. At 30 yards, check perhaps 3 inches down the yarn; at 40 yards, 4 inches, and so forth.

Now, here’s the tricky part: you’ll have to figure out for yourself how the deflection of the yarn relates to the deflection of pellets from your gun. If you’re shooting a slow air rifle, you will have to hold off more at any given range than if you were shooting a fast one. To begin calibrating the wind reader for your gun, it’s helpful to mentally divide the yarn into thirds for close, medium and long range.

Once you become accustomed to it, I think you’ll agree that the wind reader is a slick system for shooting better under windy conditions.

Setting up a Mil-Dot Scope

by Harley Ayre

Compared to most firearms, airguns shoot loopy trajectories. For example, an air rifle shooting 820 fps, with a sight height of 1.5 inches, and zeroed at 15.5 yards, will show a pellet drop of nearly two inches at 50 yards, 2.74 inches at 55 yards, 4.2 inches at 60 yards, and so forth.

So what's the best way of putting a pellet that follows a loopy trajectory in the kill zone at an unknown range? Field target shooters manage the trick by using a high-magnification scope with adjustable objective. The shooter focuses the scope precisely on the target and reads the distance to the target off the bell of the scope. Using that information, the shooter then adjusts the elevation knob of the scope to compensate for the rise or drop in the pellet at that exact range.

The problem with the range-find-with-the-scope/knob-adjustment system -- other than it can be very time-intensive to get it set up well -- is that it can be completely defeated by simply returning the elevation knob to zero in the wrong direction. It's really, really annoying when it happens, and all of your subsequent shots will be off until you figure out what happened.

But there is a way to get the job done while avoiding knob-twisting: by using a mil-dot scope. The mil-dot reticle scope was originally designed for the military to allow snipers to estimate the range more accurately. What makes the mil-dot reticle so useful to airgunners is that the crosshairs, plus the dots above and below the crosshairs, give you multiple different elevation aiming points that you can use to compensate for the trajectory at a given range.

It's easy to adapt the mil-dot reticle for use with an airgun. Start by zeroing the scope on the crosshairs at the zero range you prefer; say 20 yards (see the blog on Optimum Point Blank Zero). Once you are satisfied that the pellets are hitting where they should, move to 15 yards and trigger another shot, using the same point of aim. Now look through the scope again, carefully centered the crosshairs on your original point of aim. You'll see that the pellet shot from 15 yards has landed between the crosshairs and one of the mil-dots above or below the crosshairs. This is your new point of aim for 15 yards. Mark the 15-yard aim point on a picture of a mil-dot reticle (you can print one off the Internet or draw one by hand). Repeat the process at 5 yard intervals, and soon you will have mapped out all the points of aim for the distances you plan to shoot at. If you have a variable-power scope, be sure to use the scope at the same power at which you mapped your aiming points. Otherwise, you may miss because the relative distance between dots changes with the magnification on most mil-dot scopes.

To put the mil-dot to use in a practical situation, all you need to know is the range to the target (To find that, you can estimate the range, use your scope to range-find, or ping the target with a laser range-finder). Next, look at your chart to see which aiming point you use for that range, and you're good to go. It's just that easy.